Source 4 LED Series 3 Complete Repair Guide

Opening the casing

1.Lay the fixture flat on an antistatic mat, top side up, yoke at the back (the yoke can stay on for most repairs)
2. Remove the 4 screws holding the top casing to the bottom casing (Torx 20)
3. Carefully lift the top casing upwards and to the left, being careful of the power and DMX harnesses. Gently remove these from the guide hole in the PSU metalwork, and place the top casing upside down to the left of the bottom casing

Replacing the PSU

4. Unplug the AC input cable from the PSU, and the earth bond spade crimp Reassembly note: brown at top (CE)
5. Remove the 3x Torx 20 screws that hold the PSU metalwork in place Caution: when moving the DC ferrite out of the way, be careful not to damage any components on the control PCB
6. Gently lift the PSU halfway out, and loosen the black/red DC screws to remove the spade crimps Reassembly note: black at top
7. Lift the PSU the rest of the way out. If replacing, unscrew the PSU from the metalwork and replace with new one, paying attention to orientation
8. Reassembly note: to reinstall PSU metalwork into body, ensure that the loose bottom plate is well seated in the two peg holes, so that the 3 screw holes all line up with the body

Replacing the control card (UI)

9. To remove control card, unplug DMX header from the left side
10. Disconnect the large ribbon cable from the control card (locking bar is underneath)
11. Gently lift the UI assembly upwards, disconnect the small ribbon cable from the NFC board, and disconnect the antenna cable from the control card
12. Disconnect the DC wires from the control card by pushing down on the locking tabs (these can break, be careful if you want to reuse the control card later) Note: if replacing the display, these do not need to be disconnected
13. To remove the PCB, pull off the 4 UI knob caps, then unscrew the 4 small screws circled in orange in step 12
14. If installing a new control card, transfer the small ribbon cable from the old one, ensuring that the orientation remains the same (same way round, same way up)

Replacing the display

15. Lift the retaining bar on the display ribbon cable and remove the end
16. Flip the control card and gently release the 4 plastic feet from the display mount
17. Remove the old display from the mount and slide the new one in
18. Gently click the mount back onto the control card, and re-attach the ribbon cable

Replacing the antenna cable/connector assembly

19. Unscrew the 8mm retaining nut from the outside and replace

 Replacing the NFC PCB  

20. The NFC PCB is only held in by the NFC sticker, so you will need a replacement sticker (P/N 7462A4013) Peel the sticker off and install the new PCB with the new sticker, paying attention to orientation

Accessing the array and driver cards

From this point onwards, steps 4-20 (removing PSU and control card) do not necessarily need to be done first

21. Remove the 2x Torx 20 screws holding the array/heatsink assembly in place
22. Gently lift the assembly upwards
23. Disconnect the four LED harnesses and the two fan harnesses from the driver board, and then place the array assembly to one side Reassembly note: the 4 LED harnesses are all different sizes. The fan harnesses plug into the side they run from

Replacing the driver card

24. Remove the four screws
25. Gently lift the driver card up as shown, and disconnect the ribbon cable and DC wires
26. Install the new driver card like-for-like

Replacing the distro card   

It is unlikely for the distro card to fail (long thin PCB bringing power and data from the back to the front). However, these steps would be required if moving all components from a damaged bottom casing to a new one

27. Remove the 2x Torx 20 screws from the distro cover
28. Lift out the distro card Caution: if replacing the distro card or ribbon cable(s), it is very important to respect the orientation of the ribbon cables (same way round, same way up). Note the blue sides of the ends
29. If replacing the bottom casing, also remove the silver tray underneath the driver card, and the 3x shutter barrel clips (all Torx 20)

Replacing the array or fans

Steps 24-29 are not required for this

30. Remove the metal blocker plate from the mixing tube by pressing the two tabs on oppsite sides Reassembly note: see the orientation of the plate: the slightly indented side goes top/bottom, aligned with the tabs (marked X)
31. Remove the mixing tube by removing the four 3mm hex bolts with a ball-headed key Reassembly note: make sure the mixing tube is oriented as shown, sits snugly on the array PCB, and do not overtighten
32. Remove the array PCB by removing the four 2.5mm hex bolts
33. If replacing the array, be sure to install the included heat-conductive foil underneath, and move the 4 wiring harnesses over from the old one
34. If replacing the small fan, respect the air flow direction and wiring orientation (see image in step 32) Reassembly note: earlier revisions used rubber barbs to hold the fan in place. If this is the case, it is possible to re-use them, but they are tricky to install, and it may be easier to order the new screws (4x HWM160)
35. If replacing the large fan, respect the air flow direction and wiring orientation, and note the wire routing shown here. Ensure the metal clips are firmly in position

Replacing the power and DMX input boards

None of the bottom-casing steps (4-35) are required for this

36. Disconnect the relevant wires from the inside. Note that the power PCB uses the slightly fragile connectors, only use as much force as necessary to remove the wire
37. Unscrew the relevant connectors from the outside
38. If replacing the power input board, ensure correct connections and make sure all connections are very firmly seated and can't be pulled out by hand

Notes on re-assembly

In general, you can follow the steps in this guide in reverse order. Do pay attention to the following:

Respect all ribbon cable orientations. Refer to the pictures in this guide, and observe the blue sides of the ends
When re-seating the array/heatsink/mixing tube assembly, ensure this is snugly seated so that the flanges line up with the screw holes. It should go in with a satisfying feeling If not, check the round metal blocker plate at the front is oriented correctly (see step 30) and that it is sitting correctly at the bottom - the silver blocker plate sits behind the black parts of the bottom casing (circled in green) Ensure the assembly doesn't crush the fan wire on the left
Very important: before reinstalling the top cover, ensure that the wire routing is good. The power input harness should sit in the guide hole (A) with the heat shrink-protected part running through the hole The DC harness ferrite should sit snugly in between the PSU plate and the control PCB (C) and the DMX ferrite on the opposite side (B). You can now place the top casing on vertically, and shuffle it into place If it doesn't fit, do not force it. The DC ferrite can snap off a capacitor if pushed too hard. Things to check at the back: - Ferrites not fouling or sitting too high - Control card and UI metalwork properly seated in the correct runners At the front: - If the back sits well but the front doesn't, you may need to poke the two flanges of the blocker plate so they sit behind the extrusion on the top casing - this is the top case equivalent of the photo above