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Electronic Theatre Controls Inc

D60 not powering on

Perform repair work at your own risk. ENSURE ANY POWER FROM DEVICES HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED BEFORE BEGINNING ANY REPAIR WORK.  If you do not feel comfortable performing the repair work, please contact ETC or your local service center.  Be aware that ETC is not responsible for any damage or injury caused by repair or service of ETC Products by anyone other than ETC or its authorized repair agents and such damage is excluded from ETC’s warranty.

WARNING: The power supply in these fixtures remains charged for some time after unplugging the fixture. Do NOT work on the fixture for at least an hour after removing the fixture from a power source!After the steps described above are carried out, the pictures will be immediately deleted without any additional confirmation queries. 

 

Symptoms/Issue

Fixture does not power on.

Sound is an excellent troubleshooting technique for this issue. There are two symptoms covered by this article:

-    Buzzes once when plugged in, then does nothing. Fixture does not turn on.

-    Does not make any sound when plugged in. Fixture does not turn on.

Description/Explanation of Issue

If the fixture buzzes once when plugged in, then remains off, it is likely that one or several components on the power supply (7410B5606) have failed. This problem can be fixed by either replacing the damaged components, or replacing the power supply.
Replacing the power supply is an option that can be done in the field.

Very likely VR1, CR4, and CR10 on the power supply have failed. Replacing these three components will typically repair the power supply. In rarer circumstances, R21 through R24 may have one or more resistors burnt out. Missing any failed components may likely cause the power supply to burn out again when powered on.

 

 

If the fixture makes no sound when plugged in and remains off, it is likely that a component on the power supply has shorted internally, causing the power supply fuse at F1 to blow. Replacing these components will typically fix the problem. Replacing the fuse with the onboard spare will NOT fix the issue, and may actually cause more issues.
Replacing the power supply is an option that can be performed in the field.

Q1 has likely shorted, R25 open, and F1 is blown. C4, CR14, and U2 may have also failed. If, after replacing Q1, F1, and R25, the fixture sounds like it's popping or bubbling, C4 may be actively burning out due to a failing diode at CR14. F1 may also burn out again due to this. Replace CR14, C4, and U2.

Also, while the fixture is apart, test the LED head power cable (black and gray cable) for shorts. If any of the wires are shorted to another wire, the array has been damaged and must be replaced at the factory. In this case, do not replace the power supply or driver, as both may fail due to the shorted array.

 

 

 

 

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